Project: Ultimate Rustler
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I searched for over a year for a cheap, accurate, inexpensive way to give the Rustler some rear toe-in. One night at the local hobby shop I was searching for parts to repair one of my rental 4-TECs. Lucky for me, they had exactly what I needed, part #4352, stock rear hub carriers. As I reached out to grab them, I had a nearly violent epiphany. These give 1.5 degrees of toe-in, and would fit the Rustler.
Note that you will need adjustable camber links to use these. Also be sure to pay attention to which carrier goes on which side (they're marked R & L). With stock axles, I used one 1.5mm nylon spacer (from Traxxas part #2545) and one thin teflon spacer (Traxxas #1985) just outside of the carrier, behind the drive pin.
NOTE: When I was still using MIP CVDs, I put one 1.5mm spacer over each axle before inserting the axle through the carrier. On the outside of the carrier, I used one Traxxas #3685 1mm spacer plus one wider 1mm spacer that comes with the MIP kit (alternately, you could just use two of the Traxxas spacers) behind the drive pin.
I also used a very thin metal shim (about 0.2mm) from my random hardware bin next to the carrier to take out a bit of play left over between the inner edges of the a-arm.
Running on a mildly broken-surface, hard track with loose corners, I found I needed even more toe in still, so it was time to kick it up another notch. I ditched my old CVDs and reinstalled the stock slider shafts, tightened down my rear camber links (if you're starting from scratch, use 54mm turnbuckles such as the Traxxas #1937 set) and installed a set of SRT/Nitro Rustler rear arms (#1955 or 2555). These have 3 degrees of toe-in each, adding to the 1.5 per side gained with the 4-TEC hub carriers. These leave a bit of play at the arm mount which is taken up by a 1/16" spacer . As these arms are much narrower than stock E-Rustler units, they require shallow-offset (wider) rear rims, such as stock fronts or SRT/Nitro Rustler rears. As an aside, the stock sliders & yokes weigh about 0.7oz. less per complete set than CVDs, though rotating mass is increased.
Next I inverted the rear ("long" fronts swapped in with Phase II) shocks to lower the center of gravity. I had tried this once before, but with no luck at the time. One problem with upside-down shocks is that they must be absolutely perfectly filled. At rest or with the suspension uncompressed, the pistons sit in the upward-facing bottoms of the shocks, right where air bubbles collect. Fortunately, I finally got good at filling these shocks, with literally no detectable air, so the shock flip became feasible. The downside of this flip is that more weight is now connected to the suspension arms (the shock bodies and the oil they contain moves, rather than just the shafts & pistons). In theory this does take away some responsiveness, though I can't say I was able to notice it.
Ah, yes, let's not skip past the new carbon fiber rear shock tower on a Delrin mount. The cut-down plastic stock tower was working fine in Phase II, but I didn't like how soft & pliable it was. So, I borrowed the mount design I came up with for Daemonsbane and made a short 2mm thick tower to mount up to it. Needless to say, aside from being ridiculously stiff, this assembly is just plain pimp.
The short tower didn't accomodate a body mount very well, so I attached a post to the rear chassis stiffener. This uses a single screw and a dab of epoxy for good measure. A fixed collar and a body washer complete the part that supports the body, and a washer and pin are used over the top. If only I had centered it a liiittle bit better...